Friday, 1st August 2014 - Douglas Daly River Area … Day 427 of our ‘Around Oz’ trip
Geoff managed to sleep ok and no wonder as he took three Phenergan to stop the itches from his Hives from his allergic reaction to Penicillin. He still looks a mess.
As usual we were not speedy in getting going and hit the road after 10 am. The road from Robin Falls to the Douglas Daly turn off was very bouncy in parts and we broke one glass that bounced off and the three bathroom basket fell emptying all their contents over the floor. This was with Geoff driving at a sedate 60 odd kms per hour.
Mobile reception was very iffy but we eventually got onto the Douglas Daly Tourist Park and booked 2 sites. We then managed a very broken conversation with Ann to confirm they were still coming and where we had booked in. I also sent about four or five text messages of which about two or three said they got through. One that did get through was the phone number for the tourist park.
Once we turned off the Robin Falls Road the road was noticeably better and, 44 kms further on, we arrived. When the lady saw the size of our motorhome she said hmmmm. But she moved another camper that was due to another site so we could have two shady sites together. We then went to book two nights until she informed us that it was a long weekend in the Northern Territory for Picnic Day. Picnic Day? Bumma … so all good plans of mice and men... as we had planned to pick up my parcel at Katherine on Monday. So we booked in for three nights. At least we can have a bit of luxury with power for three days.
We then had a bit of lunch while we waited for Wyn and Ann to arrive. Later we got a call from Wyn and Ann that didn’t come through so I walked up towards the office to get three bars on the phone. Bumma … through the bad connections earlier today the messages had got garbled and they had gone to the Daly River and not the Douglas Daly River area. Wyn said he was too knackered to drive the extra 140 kms to get here and would stay down there for the night and would come on tomorrow. On the plus side (if Wyn thinks it is a plus) they have got to see a bit more of the Northern Territory they haven’t seen before. Bumma, as I was looking forward to them coming today.
Geoff spent part of the afternoon installing the new solenoid in the scooter and soon it was back purring so we then went down the track for a couple of kms to see what was there. At the end of the track we found ‘The Arches’ which consisted of small rapids/cascades descending into a large rock pool in amongst some sheer rock outcrops. Geoff went down to see if it was warm, which it was, but he said it was a little fast flowing to swim in. We then went round to below the rock pool only to be confronted by a ‘no swimming, crocodiles’ sign. Glad I saw that as I would be a tidy morsel for a croc.
Talking to people later, who come here regularly, they said they had never seen crocs around here but it is better to be safe than sorry. There was also supposed to be some more rapids and a couple of thermal pools but we never found them. We ended up at the Park swimming pool which was cold but very refreshing and was a nice shady pool. Back to the motorhome to relax. Geoff tried to get the Sat TV going but there were too many trees so never mind. We also managed to get our emails and accepted a couple of house sits, one south of Perth and one at Geraldton over Christmas and New Year. This means that we may not get to the east coast until later next year when Spring has Sprung!
Saturday, 2nd August 2014 - Douglas Daly area
A reasonable but warm night. Geoff’s hives have flattened out and merged into one, so I think they may be on the mend.
We just fiddled around until Wyn and Ann arrived around 10.30 and I walked them to the site and they were soon set up and we were having a cuppa.
In the afternoon Geoff went off on the scooter to see what the 7 kms of dirt road was like to the Douglas Hot Springs. He was soon back saying the corrugations were too bad for a scooter plus the cars were driving really fast (as they do in the NT) and the dust was horrific. He was also worried that cars wouldn’t see him through the thick dust and didn’t want to get barrelled over. So Geoff, Ann and I (Wyn stayed back with Kristy as no dogs allowed) went in the car. The road was fine for a car and we were soon at the end of the road in a nice camping area. Geoff said he still wouldn’t want to take the motorhome down it as we would be cleaning dust out of everything for days to come. The Douglas Hot Springs are ‘fair dinkum’ thermal springs unlike Mataranka that are just warm from the warmth of the rocks below. The hot springs wasn’t at all what we expected as the pools/river/creek was very shallow. The first creek we crossed was quite hot and the signs above the springs warmed people to test the water first as you could get burnt. A bit further upstream the water is near to boiling.
We found ourselves a little deep spot near a fallen log and where the sand had been scoured out by the current which was surprisingly strong. It was a very pretty spot and not that crowded considering all the campers in the camping area above. We had a good soak and Geoff enjoyed the scenery (eye candy).
When we got back Wyn, Ann and Kristy went up to have a look at The Arches, I read my ebook and Geoff went for a nanonap. An easy tea as I had Beef Goulash simmering away in my crockpot. Oh the joys of having power at a lovely seniors discount of $30 per night. After dinner we played the card game 500 again and they were really close games with the scores going up and down and a lot of risks taken. Very tight but the Whites triumphed … we must be getting better.
Sunday, 3rd August 2014 - Douglas Daly Area
Geoff didn’t get up till 9.45 so we had quite a late brekky of bacon and eggs. Geoff then did his backups on the laptop and Ann and I went down the back track to the Conservation Area to try and find the thermal pools. We think we found them, maybe, maybe not. We asked a couple of ladies who were regular visitors who said the thermal pools were not running this year and they were discussing why. We did find a picturesque spot with a mini rapid that was quite nice.
Back for lunch and then we dog sat Kristy while Wyn and Ann went up for a swim in the pool and I did some washing whilst they were away.
The rest of the day was just relaxing. Chicken for tea, fingers crossed! After dinner we played the 500 card game again and we won one game each.
Monday, 4th August 2014 - Douglas Daly area
Okay … so that proves it … chicken is the culprit with my recurring urinary tract problems. Even though I bought a free rang chook that is, supposedly, hormone and anti biotic free I ended up with the same problem. Now it will take a few days to fix and meanwhile make me feel very uncomfortable. So … no more chicken.
It was a bit noisy this morning as various campers packed up and left. The family next door to us was also packing up and Geoff got talking. Once again we realised what a small world this large land of ours can be. He was ex navy and had spent time on patrol boats and as a PWO (Principle War Officer) and his name was Bill Triffit. Turns out he knows Mark Shelvey (also on patrol boats and also a PWO) quite well as colleagues. Bill was married to a Fijian lady and they had two daughters of their own and four foster daughters who were aboriginal.
Later in the morning I was walking past Wyn’s car and cut my hand on his broken plastic bonnet stone guard. Not too badly, short but deep and it really stung. Soon doctored by me and then we all piled into Wyn’s car to go in search of the Daly River. We had found the Douglas River as it was only a few metres from the park but we wondered where they met up. We drove for 25 kms without any sign of it through areas of large stations and tree plantations that stretched as far as the eye could see. We had to turn back as Wyn was getting low on fuel . The low fuel alarm sounded 5 kms from the park so all was well as Wyn was able to fill up there.
By the time we got back the park was noticeably quieter so we had lunch and Geoff went off with his rod to see if he could hook an elusive Barra (mundi). Wyn and Ann went off for a snooze and I read my ebook. When Geoff came back he said he could see the Barra and they were quite large but were not at all interested in his Barra lure. Apparently they have to be over 55cm to be of legal size.
Later we went up to the restaurant area and found a table where we could have Kristy and had our last meal together. Back at the vans we played 500 and we won again but we are still one behind overall as Wyn was pleased to inform us!
Tuesday, 5th August 2014 - Edith Falls
A coolish morning so I got up and shut the windows. We started to pack up and then Wyn and Ann said they were ready to leave . This time it will be farewell until we catch up with them again, hopefully next year. They were heading south from Katherine and we were heading west but stopping overnight at Edith Falls. Hugs all round including Kristy, of course. As I said before … it’s been a pleasure travelling with Wyn and Ann and we have thoroughly enjoyed their company.
We waved them off and finished our packing up and we were also on our way by 9.30 after Geoff stopped at reception to ask about the tree plantations. Mahogany and Sandalwood, apparently. Now we know.
We stopped at the dump point at Pine Creek wondering if we would see Wyn and Ann there but no they were well on their way. We arrived at Edith Falls around noon and wondered if we would be able to find a spot. We found they had a new system in place where you paid your fees at the kiosk (new from last year) and were allocated a site. A much better system than driving round and waiting to pounce on a site when you saw someone drive out! But the fees have gone up. Last year they were $5.70 per person, this year they are $10 per person ($9 for seniors). We didn't find it so crowded this time. Maybe August isn’t as popular as July or, perhaps, people don’t like paying the increased prices. We were given site 20 which was directly opposite the site we had last year, settled in, had lunch and relaxed for a bit.
Around 3pm we wandered down to Edith Falls for a swim. By golly it was cold but in we went as this is what we had come for. I must admit you got used to the temperature after a while but it wasn’t long before we were out and basking in the sun on the grass. It was a warm day but not a hot day due to a cool breeze so it didn’t lend itself for staying in the water longer. Even when I got back and was relaxing in a chair under the awning I got a little chilled but it was nice after the heat of Darwin.
Wednesday, 6th August 2014 - Mathison Rest Area
Geoff got up at 7am to walk up to the top falls and pools. I snuggled under the doona and said ‘good luck’. He came back at 9am and said it was rough underfoot towards the top and I wouldn’t have liked it. Glad I snoozed on then and had all the bed to myself … lovely! He came back with some lovely photos so I will make do with them.
I’d had a shower & packed up whilst he was gone so we were soon on the road to Katherine to
After a bit of lunch we were soon heading west out of Katherine on roads un-travelled by us. We stopped at the Mathison Rest Area overnight and Geoff relaxed whilst I put all the shopping away. Soon we had a lady knocking on the door trying to sell home made cards. She was an artist and had taken photos of her work and made them into these cards. And I thought she was a good artist as well but we had no need of any so she went away empty handed. Then we had another caller, the guy next door with a Jayco caravan, who asked if he could look inside so we showed him around … which took all of 3 seconds.
As we went to bed a ‘whiz bang’ parked in front of us with 6 overseas backpackers. Unfortunately overseas youngsters tend to eat late and stay up late and they had a large fire. Nothing wrong with that until they came close to the front of our motorhome breaking off branches from the trees. A quick grump from me and they went elsewhere. I must be getting a miserable old fart in my dotage!
Thursday, 7th August 2014 - East Baines River rest area
We were awoken at 6.30 by the guy next door packing up their caravan and then running the engine for quite a while … yawn! This meant that we were also on our way by 9am. The scenery was flat and uninteresting for a while. We did come across a cattle drive which was being done the old fashioned way … by horseback … not motorbikes or quad bikes! We also caught up with some Swiss push bike riders at a monument we stopped at and Geoff asked them how far they biked in a day. Apparently around 100 kms so well done, especially in this barren part of the land and in this heat. Rather them than me!
We continued on but Geoff soon had to brake sharply for a Wedge Tail Eagle who was partaking of his breakfast on some road kill on the road. There was no way he was going to move and he gave us a dirty look as we managed to slow down and steer round him. If he’s not careful he will become road pizza himself.
Soon the scenery started to change into mesa type country and became more scenic. A quick stop at the Victoria River to take some photos and buy an ice cream at the roadhouse and then find a picnic spot just off the road in the Gregory National Park before heading on. Lovely scenery here and, apparently, it gets better as we head west.
We had another quick stop at Timber Creek to see what was there … nothing much but did get some brochures … and then I got Geoff to stop at a couple of the many Boab trees we kept passing. Very appealing trees indeed. We found the fruit pods laying beneath the tree. This proved that, although these trees look kinda dead, they really are not. We also saw the fruit from the inside and found it quite interesting.
We eventually stopped for the night at the East Baines River rest area. Another guy had his genny on so Geoff put ours on to see if we could discourage whiz bangs from parking next to us. We had it on for a while and had the A/C on to cool the inside of the RV down. We soon turned it off because we felt bad having it on too long but the other one was still going. The East Baine River was wide and flowing but the rest area was about 500 km past it and we felt too hot to wander back to take a photo. No swimming here, of course, it’s crocodile country!
A quiet night. Onwards through flat scrub land for the first hour which was dotted with many of the strange Boab trees.
When we got to the WA/NT border there was a large quarantine facility where we had to stop. I had already peeled and top and tailed the carrots and vac packed them and they passed muster. I had also cooked up all of the remaining spuds and mashed them and they were ok too. All we lost was a lemon, some avocados (shame) and a tiny bit of leftover lettuce. Oh yes, they even took the rubbish as I had some avocado skin in it. The only nuts we had were pistachios and these were the only shelled nuts that were allowed through so we were lucky there. They didn’t ask about any honey and I didn’t mention it either so we kept that as well. We were through in a couple of minutes although they really seemed to be going through other vehicles. Maybe it was that they could see I was prepared ahead of time?
As we neared Kununurra the country started to change back into the mesa type country. We got in around lunch time and our first stop was the Info Centre to pick up a heap of brochures. We found a caravan park that didn’t cost the earth ($32 powered) and booked in for a couple of days. Alas, no shade, so we soon had the A/C purring away (and, touch wood … it hasn’t been too noisy of late), had lunch and poured over the brochures. We decided that we just HAD TO take a flight over the Bungle Bungles and Lake Argyle even though we really couldn’t afford it but we may never be back this way again. Off we went on the scooter to the airport where we b0oked a flight for tomorrow at $395 each. Ouch … pasta for the next few week probably. Still, it is nearly a three hour flight and takes in a lot. It was then on to the airport terminal as Geoff has a fascination for these places. We treated ourselves to an exorbitantly priced coffee in a small cup and it was on to the supermarket to replenish our fruit and veg supplies. We also went into a souvenir shop and Geoff bought a metal Boab tree fridge magnet. He took the magnet off when he got back as we have nothing metal for it to stick to. We liked it so much he is going to buy another, slightly different, one to go with it.
Whilst we were booking our flight we saw that we had to put our watches back an hour and a half. This meant it got dark at 5.30 … what a pain … worse than Qld and it means it will get light at some ungodly hour.
I used the already cooked mashed potato on a cottage pie and, by this time it had cooled down so it was off with the A/C and open the windows. Bugger … the dinette window blind got jammed so that is a job for Geoff in the future.
Saturday, 9th August 2014 - Kununurra
The sun came up around 5 am and we were then awake as our body clocks haven’t got adjusted yet.
It was Geoff’s birthday today so, at last, he was playing with his new Lenser torch which he says is complicated. He has also been muttering under his breath about being 68 which is closer to 70. Not much you can do about it Geoff … just ‘Keep Calm and Carry on’!
I did a couple of small loads of washing whilst Geoff went off to the hardware store to buy some bits plus get another Boab Tree fridge magnet. When he came back he modified the fridge shade cloth so he could move it around a bit more.
Time for lunch then take a couple of Kwells (just in case … it can get bumpy up there) and then it was time to make our way to Kingfisher Air Tours for our 2pm three hour flight over Lake Argyle, The Bungle Bungles, over a few remote cattle stations, one of which was where the film ‘Australia’ was filmed, over El Questro, the fringe of the Tanami Desert, The Argyle Diamond Mine (the largest Diamond mine in the world, mostly pink diamonds), The Cockburn Ranges, Wyndham, the Ivanhoe Plains (very fertile and mainly Sandalwood plantations) and the Ivanhoe Crossing. The manmade Lake Argyle was absolutely huge and it covers an area 18 times the size of Sydney harbour. For further info just click on the following link … http://www.kimberley-australia.com/kimberley-attractions/lake-argyle/ Geoff says it is actually classed as an inland sea!
The Bungle Bungles also covered a huge area with some isolated small (from the air) clumps and others all rolling into one with huge gorges
The Cockburn Ranges were completely different with all of the hills looking like mesa’s with vertical cliffs fringing the tops. Also very impressive. All the other parts we flew over were extremely interesting as well and a flight would be the only way to cover the amount of the areas surface as many places are totally inaccessible by vehicle, and certainly ours. We covered approximately 550 kms over the three hours and we were all suffering from visual overload and numb legs and bottoms! Three hours was certainly enough but well worth the $$$’s. Unfortunately, trips like this do not come cheap but Kingfisher Air Tours offered a senior’s discount of $20 each. As Geoff said “Having been to Grand Canyon twice in his life it now takes something pretty spectacular to rise above the myriad of ‘bank draining’ trips available. This trip can now be crossed off the Bucket List!
Easy tea of left over Cottage Pie and early to bed.
Sunday, 10th August 2014 - Kununurra
We are staying another day as we have decided we like Kununurra! Bacon of eggs, of course. I got some beef olives cooking in the slow cooker, washed the bed linen and then we were off on the scooter again to the Mirima National Park. This national park abuts and overlooks the caravan park where we are staying and is likened to a mini Bungle Bungles. There were four walks to choose from and we chose the one to the ridge lookout over looking the caravan park. It wasn’t a long walk but it was one that left you huffing and puffing with a few rests on the way. It truly was like a mini Bungle Bungles with very striking and interesting rock formations. At the top of the ridge lookout 2AB2 could be seen in the caravan park below. When we got back down to the bottom we also completed the easy loop walk.
From here it was onto The Pump Station Restaurant on the banks of Lake Kununurra. (Just a note … a 2.5 metre salt water (Estuarine) crocodile had been seen in this lake just a few days ago!) The restaurant still had the pump house machinery in situ and the tables were organised around these lumps of massive machinery. We sat outside on the shady veranda with a mango smoothie each. Below us the water was black with huge catfish waiting for any titbits that managed to find their way below from the diners above. When a chip or two came their way they made the water seem to boil. Very fascinating to watch. Oh … and the mango smoothies were very good too!
Back to the caravan park for a bite to eat and a relax for a while. Well, quite a while in fact.
We just fiddled around for the rest of the afternoon. The beef olives were disappointing as the meat was a little tough… and this was meat from the butcher not supermarket.
Monday, 11th August 2014 - Maggie Creek
Well … today was a mixed bag!
We left the caravan park at around 9.30 and headed up the Weaber Plains Road to a cheap diesel outlet Geoff had seen a sign for in town and also found on his Wikicamps phone app. It was, perhaps, 5 kms out of town (I wasn’t checking) and the diesel was $1.78 a litre instead of the $1.93 in town. It was an automated credit card pump and the only downside was that you had to stipulate a dollar amount and if you didn’t take diesel to that amount then you had to wait a couple of days to see it credited back into your credit card. At 14 cents a litre cheaper it was well worth the travel of just a few kms.
Back onto the Great Northern Hwy heading to Wyndham but checking out a couple of overnight camp spots on the way. We stopped en route at a place called ‘The Grotto’ which was carved out by the waters of a creek into a great big depression in the local sandstone. To get down to the pool below there were 140 steps built into the side of the cliffs to negotiate. Steep steps and no handrails so I decided that it would be too difficult for me with hardly any sense of balance. Geoff went down to the pool and watched backpackers having a swim and swimming from the ropes hanging from the trees. Whilst he was down there he got talking to a fellow traveller who hailed from Tamworth. It seems he knows Michael Shailer of Bundaberg Sugar quite well. Michael was the guy who located our boat for us after the floods. Once again I can only stress what a small world this place can be!
When we got into Wyndham our first port of call was the Five Rivers Lookout. Caravans were not allowed up this road and we could soon see why. It was very steep in parts with some very sharp hairpin bends. However, Geoff’s masterful driving got us to the top (his words)! It was well worth the steep drive and the views from the top were extraordinary! The panorama views looked from the entrance to the Cambridge Gulf and the Timor Sea beyond and then inland to the Cockburn Ranges. As we had overflown this area a couple of days ago the lookout gave us a different aspect of these views.
After we had taken our fill of the views we had lunch and then slowly, mostly in first gear, made our way back down. I must admit I hate steep hills and I did have my eyes shut in the steeper sections.
We then found the new community jetty which was built in 2012 and Geoff thought he would dangle a line and lure in. The lure went in and the lure came out, and that was it! Nobody was doing very well and what fish that were being pulled in were only catfish. We then had a quick drive through town … sorry, it’s not much of a town … and we headed out to find a place to stop overnight.
We were only 7 kms from our chosen campsite when there was a loud bang and the motorhome started shuddering. What the???? Geoff pulled to a stop and, sure enough, we had blown and shredded a tyre. Bugger! How glad were we that it didn’t blow coming down that steep hill from the lookout! We were soon jacking up the vehicle to put the spare on. Hard work as she’s a heavy vehicle plus the spare is never in an easy place to get to. I helped where I could. Of all the vehicles that passed only two stopped. A Victorian and a Queenslander.
It probably took about an hour and then we continued on our way to the rest area and found a reasonably level spot. We were lucky as there were only a couple of level areas and we were the first in followed half and hour later by a slide-on camper van who took the other level spot. The last traveller in had to make do with the best he could find. The camp area here was beside a billabong on Maggie Creek and on the far side of the billabong where many majestic Boab Trees. Behind these trees were many hills lit with the golden light of the setting sun. We sat outside taking it all in. As the sun dipped below the hills a flock of white cockatoos (not sulphur crested) and Red Tailed Black Cockatoos came down to the billabong for water and to roost. It doesn’t get much better than this and we wished all overnight spots could be as good as this one. Oh, I do so love those Boab trees, they have such character!
It probably took about an hour and then we continued on our way to the rest area and found a reasonably level spot. We were lucky as there were only a couple of level areas and we were the first in followed half and hour later by a slide-on camper van who took the other level spot. The last traveller in had to make do with the best he could find. The camp area here was beside a billabong on Maggie Creek and on the far side of the billabong where many majestic Boab Trees. Behind these trees were many hills lit with the golden light of the setting sun. We sat outside taking it all in. As the sun dipped below the hills a flock of white cockatoos (not sulphur crested) and Red Tailed Black Cockatoos came down to the billabong for water and to roost. It doesn’t get much better than this and we wished all overnight spots could be as good as this one. Oh, I do so love those Boab trees, they have such character!
Tuesday, 12th August 2014 - Denham River
A quiet and peaceful night but Geoff is still getting up at 7am as his body clock hasn’t adjusted yet.
We were on the road by 8am and back in Kununurra by 9am. We found Bridgestone first but they were too busy to fit us in plus they were not very friendly. We next found Tyre Power who said they could fit us in at 1.30 so we found a shady spot in town where we could catch up on our emails (we are getting a lot of house sit offers) and other things. We then wandered down to the small and only shopping centre to Travel World to book for the Horizontal Falls Seaplane and jet boat tour as they had a special deal going. This left our bank balance precariously low so when we got back to the motor home I got onto my superannuation company to see about rolling it over into an income stream. I now have all of the forms to print off and fill out and then send off so will get to that over the next few days.
We then made our way back to Tyre Power where they put our spare tyre (which we were carrying) onto the wheel and put it back on for us. When Geoff went to pay they said they wouldn’t charge him! How can a business make money when they do that sort of thing? It must have taken over half an hour. In the end he accepted $20 and then I went back and gave him a good (Peter Lehman) wine as well as a thank you.
Back up to the cheap diesel outlet and then we were, once again, leaving Kununurra. We stopped about 80 kms on at an overnight rest area called Dunham River. We have yet to see the river but it is a scenic spot and not too many travellers here. Also a bit of an added bonus as there is ‘on and off’ internet coverage.
Wednesday, 13th August 2014 - Dunham River
We were woken up at 5.30 by some rude travellers making a heap of noise just near our window. When he left someone else took over so we were up by 6.30. Ho hum!
Still the morning was quite productive with Geoff installing a new handle on the motorhome entry door and fixing a LED light surround that had cracked. I spent most of the morning trying to get my head around the superannuation Retirement Income Stream info then getting the myriad of forms printed off and filled in. I have done as much as I can as I now need a JP to certify certain documents and to witness some areas of the forms. When I find one I will get the Power of Attorney forms finalised as well and sent off to Sammy.
After lunch we found a narrow track (animal or human?) down to the Dunham River to explore, with me, every vigilant for crocs. It was only a 4 minute walk and Geoff saw quite a few fish in there. If they were Barramundi he said they were certainly undersized. When we got back to the rest area we were caught by a couple who asked if Geoff knew anything about setting up a Sat TV. We then spent the next hour fiddling around but to no avail. We then got ours out and got TV so we think they have a component of the system that has stopped working. We did print out the satellite positions at various locations as they had left theirs at home and you would be lost without them.
Thursday, 14th August 2014 - Mulak Rest Area
At least it was 7am when we were awoken by people packing up today.
As is normal for us, it was a leisurely pack up, say goodbye to fellow travellers and head off around 10am. It was only going to be a short drive of around 120—140 kms depending on what rest area we chose as there were two close to each other. We stopped in at Doon Doon Roadhouse to dump our black water but it was closed so we may have to wander off into the bush somewhere with the spade to dig and bury it as there is not another dump point for many kilometres.
As we drove along the sparsely treed landscape there were rocky massifs and mountains that looked like a pile of dumped boulders. The contrast between the rock and the vegetation went through various subtle changes as we drove along. The Boab trees are now getting less plentiful and the termite mounds are different from any we have seen before. These termite lack the majestic spire and buttress building ability. Their mounds are more like handfuls of mud that have been thrown into a messy pile and they are very dome like with a rough exterior.
The diesel at the couple of roadhouses along the way was not cheap at around $2.10 but I expect that is what we will have to pay when we get to Halls Creek.
We eventually stopped at a pretty little rest area called Muluks Rest. There is a large rock here with a plaque that states ‘In loving memory of Vincent George Ramsay Muluk, Born 12/10/1983. Passed away here 11/5/2008. From all his family and friends’. Now I was intrigued and Googled him to see what the story was all about but I came up with zilch!.
It looks like the old highway ran through a shallow causeway through the creek and has now been bypassed by a bridge and new road and they have converted the old road area into an overnight rest area. As we are the first ones in, we have the best spot. Maybe it will stay quiet as the next rest area is on 13 kms further on and has toilets. Whether being alone overnight is a good thing or bad thing, I don’t really know.
Anyway, we had an enjoyable afternoon. We wandered down to the creek and found a small mob of Brahman cattle resting in the shade of the road bridge. I find this breed of cattle very appealing to look at. I then got a beef casserole cooking on the wood BBQ near the picnic shelter. I had it simmering for about an hour and the meat was very tender. Whilst dinner was simmering away we had a game of Carcassonne at the picnic table so we could keep an eye on the fire to keep it going. Wonders of wonders … I won again … this is the fourth time in a row. I think Geoff is getting a little peeved. Well Geoff, you had better pull your finger out!
After this I got the rest of the veggies ready and then we enjoyed a coffee and a bikkie as the sun slowly edged it way towards the horizon. Just as we started to cook dinner another motorhome came in and parked next to us in the last flat area. At least we are not alone overnight now which suits me as there is always safety in numbers.
We had a nice dinner sitting at the table under the picnic shelter and then migrated to our chairs around the fire in the fire pit which we sat and enjoyed until it was just embers. Time to put the fire out and head inside where we watched the movie ‘The Hobbit’ which Geoff did not like at all. Not his sort of thing, he watched it for me.
Friday, 15th August 2014 - Muluks Rest
It was quite cold last night and we were a little chilled in bed so we will have to grab another blanket or the doona tonight. As we head inland the nights are definitely getting colder!
We decided we would stay another night but our water was getting quite low so we decided to boil some of the creek water, which was crystal clear. We are just boiling it to be safe. A couple pulled in for a cuppa and they were from
It got quite crowded later in the afternoon as, apparently, the Spring Creek rest area was full. So there was now us, a camper trailer, a small bus and two caravans. We cooked on the wood BBQ again. We cooked early as it gets dark so early here. Just as we started to cook we could hear Dingos howling close by. For those of you who don’t know, Dingos howl but don’t bark and it is quite unusual to hear them howling this way. But nice! We ate outside and later sat round the fire until it was embers again. Later Geoff went up onto the road to see if he could get a movie of the road trains as they pass as they are quite pretty with all of their lights on. They had been going past all of the time but not, of course, when Geoff was up there!
Saturday, 16th August 2014 - Mary Pool, Mary River
Went onto Facebook this morning and saw that one of my sisters dogs had died. This was her original Schnauzer and one we had cuddled during a visit over. We said we now know why the Dingos were howling last night. They were sending Alfie on his way.
It was a cold night again so we were glad we pulled the doona out. Pack up and we were soon on our way to Halls Creek through country that was sometimes flat scrub bushland and other times hilly or those rock boulder piles again. Geoff said that the line markings were very white. Then, as we rounded the corner, we saw the line marking crew. This is when the UHF radio comes in handy as they called us and said they would move and for us to pass on the inside so we were soon past.
We got into Halls Creek just before noon and went into the Info Centre to find out where we could fill up with water. We could get it from the info centre at 20¢ a litre so we waited in line whilst a caravan filled up in front of us and then it was our turn. Then we filled up on diesel at $1.85 a litre which we didn't think was too bad as the two service stations further back on the highway were $2.10 a litre. There didn’t seem to be much to Halls Creek. A large aquatic centre (for whom … there are not many people here), 2 tatty servo’s and 1 decent Coles Express one, a butcher, chemist, an IGA Express and a smaller supermarket, a hotel and a small department type store. I think Halls Creek must make their money in the tourist season when all the RV travellers are on the road.
We were soon heading out of town but had only got 50 kms when we came across a caravan that had blown a tyre. Geoff stopped to help as did another traveller as the guy said he was unable to get his jack under as the tyre was down to the rim. Geoff’s two jacks did the job and 40 minutes later they were on their way. Another good deed done! (mind you, Geoff seemed to be doing all the work).
So onto the next rest area, 50 kms on, called Mary Pool on the Mary River (how many Mary Rivers are there in Oz?) It was a very large rest area so it was easy to find a spot and settle in.
We were on our second cup of coffee when Wyn rang and said they were about 20 kms the other side of Port Augusta in SA and that it was raining and absolutely freezing.
Later Geoff got the fire pig going and we were soon joined by two more couples. Pete and Barb who we had chatted to in Halls Creek whilst they filled with water and John and his wife who was the guy who also stopped to help the people with the blown tyre. We all sat around the fire for about and hour and a half enjoying a drink, or two, so it was a late tea for us. But very enjoyable company.
Sunday, 17th August 2014 - Mary Pool, Mary River WA … Day 443 of our ‘Around Oz’ trip
It was quite windy this morning so almost impossible to cook our bacon and eggs outside so we cooked on the hotplate inside.
I finished off Part One of the August journal and Geoff gave it the once over and tweaked it in some spots, as he does!
We decided to stay another day here and the day was spent reading and giving Barb, next door, all of my ebooks to play with so she is now poring all over them.
Geoff serviced the chain saw and then we wandered down to the river for a look. Not much water in it at the moment, just pools.
We had an early tea then Pete and Barb came over for drinks in front of the fire.
Monday, 18th August 2014 - Fitzroy Crossing
We were soon on the road and skirting the fringes of the Great Sandy Desert passing more of the large russet coloured non-artistic termite mounds. We pulled in for a cuppa at the Ngumban Lookout and found a dump point there that is not in the Camps7 book or on the CMCA site so we made use of it. Ngumban Lookout is a very scenic site but without any shade and windy which was a shame as it was one of the better overnight rest areas we have come across. It was a nice place to have morning tea and to look out across a vista of mesas and valleys and can thoroughly recommend it as a rest stop. From here we continued on to Fitzroy Crossing through country that could only be described as ‘Wild West’ country. We got into town just after noon and booked into the Fitzroy River Lodge, which had been recommended to us, for a two days.
When we got back Geoff went off to have a look at the Fitzroy River and have a look around the resort. He then helped a neighbour sort out a jammed awning and then we relaxed outside with a nice pear cider.
Tuesday, 19th August 2014 - Fitzroy Crossing
The morning was spent doing nothing much of anything, really.
After lunch we went into town again and visited the police station where a nice sergeant certified my documents so that was that done. We then went onto Geikie Gorge, another 18 km on. The idea was to do the ranger boat tour through the gorge. According to the brochure and the website you could pay by eftpos but you know the saying “All good plans of mice and men”. The eftpos was not available and we did not have the $44 in cash with us … bumma. So we decided to do the 4.4 km Jarrambayah walk up the gorge. The first part of this track was very sandy and was very hard going but the track soon hardened up. It was pretty scenery through crumbling limestone cliffs but the track was separated from the gorge by a very large sandbank so you could not see the river. We trudged on and then, suddenly, the track stopped at a fence that stopped you going any further and a sign stating that the limestone cliffs were dangerous. We had just about reached the river but were nowhere near where the two cliffs met to become the more spectacular part of the gorge. It was a big disappointment so we were not that enthralled with it. We then walked back the way we came even though the signage at the info rotunda showed it as a loop (later we saw that you could walk back via the riverbank but there was no signage that showed a track that way plus the sand would have been extremely hard going). We were quite shattered by the time we had waded through the last sand section so were not ‘happy campers’. A lot of effort for really nothing! I am sure the boat trip would have been excellent so we are tempted to come back when we leave and do that trip and, maybe, we will change our minds.
On the way back we did a little detour looking at the outer areas of the town and then it was back to do another washing load, relax and then have yummy lamb shanks which had been slowly cooking all day in the crockpot.
Later we had a call from a lady called Heather who was looking for house/pet sitters at Exmouth middle of next month for three weeks. This seemed to work out well so we accepted it. They have a house on 1.5 hectares near the coast and we will be looking after two German Shorthaired Pointers. Wyn & Ann, take note!
Wednesday, 20th August 2104 - Fitzroy Crossing
We decided we would stay one more day. Everyone seems to have left this morning and the place looked quite empty for a while but it soon started filling up. I checked my superannuation forms one more time, then Geoff checked them and we hopped onto the scooter to go to the post office in town. Geoff decided we would go via the old crossing. Okay in theory but the road was dirt and very sandy and corrugated in parts. As a pillion passenger traveling on rough dirt and sandy tracks is not my idea of fun. When we got to the crossing there was a steep descent down to the concrete causeway and a, just as steep, ascent the other side. No way you would try to attempt this crossing in a reasonably sized motorhome, we decided. We stopped halfway across the causeway to take some photos when a motorhome appeared at the other side. We wondered if he was going to attempt the crossing, but no, he parked and they walked down to view the river.
Once across we didn’t have much more dirt road to navigate, thank goodness, and we were soon in town posting the mail and grabbing a few supplies from the small IGA there (expensive). There’s probably less shops here than Halls Creek, maybe, or about the same so it doesn’t take long to look around.
Once across we didn’t have much more dirt road to navigate, thank goodness, and we were soon in town posting the mail and grabbing a few supplies from the small IGA there (expensive). There’s probably less shops here than Halls Creek, maybe, or about the same so it doesn’t take long to look around.
We were soon back to the motorhome were we just fiddled around and vegged out for the rest of the afternoon.
Thursday, 21st August 2014 - Ellendale Rest Area, en route to Derby
We didn’t rush off this morning as we intended to take the 11am ranger boat tour up Geikie George before we headed further west. We left the caravan park just before 10 am and stopped off in town at a store that seemed to sell a little bit of everything. Nothing jumped out saying “buy me, buy me” so we didn’t!
We were at Geikie Gorge just after 10 am and booked for the 11 am tour then relaxed with a cuppa until it was time to go. It was well worth the $22 each but we had to ‘slip, slop, slap’ as it was an hour on an open boat.
The ranger taking the tour called himself a Japariginal. This was because his father was a Japanese pearl diver in Broome and his mother was a part aboriginal, by a pastoralist and one of the stolen generation. One of many from those days gone by! He gave a very interesting talk and said the gorge was carved out by the Fitzroy River into the remains of the ancient limestone barrier reef that existed here in the Devonian period.
When the Fitzroy is in full flood during the wet season it covers the whole national park. These floods rise over 16 metres up the gorge walls and the continuous rise and fall of the water has left the bottom of the walls bleached white, which is an intriguing sight. The aboriginal name for the gorge is Darngku which means deep water and was given this name by the traditional owners, the Bunaba. Apparently, they are about to change the name back to this original name.
We lost count of how many fresh water crocodiles we saw. To say there were a lot would be an understatement. We floated under large undermined limestone cliffs where tiny little Fairy Swallows (I am surprised that political correctness hasn’t yet changed the name to Little Swallows!) had made their mud nests. The limestone cliffs were very colourful, imposing and very interesting with some fantastic rock formations, crevices and caves. Even Richard Nixon was there!
The gorge runs for approximately 15 kms until the limestone disappears and the terrain becomes flat again for a while. Another thing of interest was the parasitic invader, the passionfruit vine that climbs up Eucalypts and forms a ladder which can be devastating during a bush fire as the flames climb this weed ladder and get into the tree canopy.
There are also over 28 species of fish in the Fitzroy River including the elusive and endangered fresh water sawfish. We are really glad we did the boat trip as Geikie Gorge has now redeemed itself and we can highly recommend it.
We eventually left Fitzroy Crossing at 1 pm and travelled the short distance of 88 kms to Ellendale rest area, the next overnight spot. It was not a large area and not much shade and what there was, was all taken. Still, we found a level spot and settled in. It gets a bit warm when there is no shade but it soon cools down when the sun goes down.
We were awake early again as we could hear some clicking noises and Geoff thought the gas might have run out and it was the fridge defrosting. It wasn’t but the gas is low so it won’t be long.
We were on the road by 8.30 and only had about 80 odd kms to go to the next overnight rest area. This was the last rest area before Derby and we were staying there overnight as we did not need to get to Derby until Saturday and didn’t want to have to spend an extra night in a caravan park when we didn’t need to.
As we drove along, the Boab trees started to appear in all their glory again. I keep thinking we have left them behind but no, they pop up over and over again. When we got to the next overnight stop there to greet us was an old, huge and magnificent Boab. We were settled in by 9.30 which is probably just as well as it is not an overall large rest area.
Once we had found a spot and settled in I went out and did my ‘Leave No Trace’ thing and picked up a large bag of rubbish which included two used kids disposable diapers … bleh! Some of the rubbish is caused by the crows pulling garbage out of the bins through the wire top door but a lot is caused by people who just don’t care! What’s up with these people?
Later we went over to look at the Boab tree which we found to be hollow inside, as a lot of the more mature trees are. Geoff climbed inside and I just poked my head in. It lent itself to photos and movie so that’s what we did. Geoff then spent most of the afternoon making up a small movie on the Boab tree and then tried to load it onto Fbook and/or Utube but the service was too slow to do it so he will do it later. I read for most of the afternoon ...lovely.
Later we cooked dinner on the wood BBQ provided and it worked out well again. When we retired to bed there were probably another 4 to 5 other RV’s with us. I presume it is quieter here as there are no toilets supplied … suits us!
Saturday, 23rd August 2014 - Derby
Another short day of only 100 km to Derby so we didn’t rush off. We got into the outskirts of Derby, which is pronounced Durby and not Darby, around 10 am and detoured to look at the Boab Prison Tree. https://au.totaltravel.yahoo.com/listing/1051556/australia/wa/kimberleyarea/westkimberley/derby-1/boab-prison-tree/
What the link I have included above doesn’t mention (and non of the sites I looked at on Google did) is white settlements dark history of catching and enslaving the indigenous people and taking them down to Broome as slaves to be used as pearl divers. A chapter that white Australia tends to try and forget! This was, once again, a huge and ancient Boab but this one is classed as a sacred site so no climbing in and around this one! Also in this area is the Myall Bore and Cattle Trough, the cattle trough is 120 metre long and could handle 500 bullocks at a time. There is also Frosty's Pool, a small pool used for bathing by troops stationed in the area during WWII. Quite an interesting little history precinct.
On to the Kimberley Entrance Caravan Park where we had booked in for two nights. It was quite an expensive park at $42 per night but the other one in town looked very dusty when I looked at the photos on the web.
After lunch we jumped ont0 the scooter and went up to the wharf as it was high tide. Geoff is going back at low tides as Derby has one of the highest/lowest tides in Australia. We decided to go into the Wharf café to have a regular (on the menu) smoothie only to be told that they were only making the large ones as they didn’t have any smaller cups. Why is it on the menu then? Just don’t fill the large cup up! We ended up not having one as we just didn’t want a large one.
Geoff dropped me back at the caravan park and then went back to the Boab tree as he had inadvertently deleted all the photos he took earlier on. Silly B! Later he went back to the wharf to take a photo at low tide but I am not sure whether he still has the one at high tide! Nope!
When he got back he finished off his short Boab tree movie and uploaded it to his timeline in Facebook.
Sunday, 24th August 2014 - Derby
Wow … what a day!
Up early, shower, have brekky and hop on our coach at 8.15 to head off to the airport to board our seaplane to take us to the Horizontal Falls. We were in the air by 9am and from here on in the day can only be described as WOW!
Within 30 minutes we had landed on the calm of Talbot Bay and then docked at the floating pontoon attached to three very large 2 story house boats. One of them even had a chopper landing pad on the roof.
Within 30 minutes we had landed on the calm of Talbot Bay and then docked at the floating pontoon attached to three very large 2 story house boats. One of them even had a chopper landing pad on the roof.
No sooner had we disembarked from the seaplane the staff had organised for us to participate in shark/fish feeding. Those that wanted to could get in a shark cage and feed these critters. The most prolific species were the Tawny (nurse) Shark, commonly known as the Lemon Shark and fondly called by the crew as ‘the pets’. They know them all by name and they each have their own personalities. They are quite gently with soft mouths but lurking below in a little deeper water was a large Bull Shark which the crew do not encourage, for obvious reasons. There was also a large Batt Fish and a Giant Groper which must have had the day off as he was nowhere to be seen. Geoff went into the cage but I didn’t as I couldn’t be bothered changing into my bathers when the view from the top was just as good.
We had 5 minutes to ourselves before we were boarding a 900hp fast boat and were off to visit the Horizontal Waterfalls. It was two and a half hours before high tide so the tide was just about at its strongest. The first gap/falls we came to were commonly known as the wide falls as the gap is about 20 metres wide. We did several passes through this gap/falls at various speeds including standing still in the middle of the gap whilst the
We were then taken for a cruise up Talbot Bay and into Cyclone Creek (a safe haven for boats when a cyclone threatens). The rock here was mostly sandstone and the cliffs stuck out at many angles due to the earths upheaval eons ago. The rocks were extremely interesting plus Talbot Bay and the surrounds are very beautiful. The hues of the rock range from black to golden brown, orange and tan and contrasted sharply with the azure blue water and the deep blue of the cloudless sky. The vegetation clinging to the cliff sides and steep hills also added various hues of green to add to the overall picture.
Arriving back at the houseboats we were greeted with fresh grilled Barramundi, bread rolls and salad. Very nice. After lunch we were again taken out on the fast boat and this time, due to it being slack tide, we were able to go through the ‘Narrow Falls’ as there was hardly any current or falls. We did the run through at high speed quite a few times and then were taken on a tour of this second bay. Beautiful scenery, plenty of Mangroves but what was missing all of this time was animals and birds. The only other living thing we saw, apart from humans and sharks, was a tiny and colourful Kingfisher.
All good things must come to an end and so it was with our Horizontal Falls day out. At 2 pm we climbed aboard the seaplane and went back to Derby the long way … over the Buccaneer Archipelago. Once again, fantastic scenery and then we were back. Exhausted, broke, but completely satisfied and happy. Nano nap for Geoff when we got back.
Easy tea of bacon, eggs and tomato in lieu of missing out this morning.
Monday, 25th August 2014 - Nillibubbica Rest Area
Pack up, stop at the supermarket and then on our way. Another short 100 km trip today.
We stopped on the way at the roadhouse at Willare Bridge as we had been recommended to buy some of the meat they sold there. The meat is called Yeeda Meat and their vision is ‘Paddock to the Plate’ through free range animals and not feed lot meat. As we don’t have much room in the fridge/freezer we bought the smallest 1.9 kg slab of rump at $9.90 a kg )how cheap is that)? We are really looking forward to it as we have had station meat before and it was fantastic. None of this glued meat or water injected stuff. I will let you know how it is. http://yeeda.com.au/meat_products/kimberley_beef.phtml
We continued on and were soon at the Nillibubbica Rest Area and settled in.
And that was it , really, for the day.
Tuesday, 26th August 2014 - Broome
We were woken by a guy talking (shouting) on his phone right outside our bedroom window at 6.30. Why are people so inconsiderate? So we were up early again… sigh!
We were soon on the road and heading into Broome after deciding to only spend one night there due to the exorbitant price of caravan parks. The cheapest site we could get was $36 for an unpowered one with hardly any
We then went back for some lunch and then went back into town to visit the Courthouse to get a JP to sign our ‘Power of Attorney’ forms. This is when Geoff realised that his driving licence was nowhere to be seen. We were still able to get everything signed off but now we have the worry of not knowing where it is. The last time he can remember pulling it out was at the Three Ways Roadhouse, NT for diesel. I slid it back in his wallet but now its gone so if we can’t find it we will have to organise a replacement.
On to Cable Beach to enjoy an early tea of Calamari, salad and chips whilst enjoying the yachts at anchor in the bay.
Back to the motorhome for a quick relax and then back into town to the Picture Gardens. The movie was a bit slow getting going but once it did it was a good laugh made even more comical as low planes drowned out the dialogue when they landed and took off from the airport close by. It was chilly on the scooter going it back so we were glad we took our jumpers.
Wednesday, 27th August 2014 - Goodwire Rest Area
For once it was after 8am before we got up … nice!
We left the Tarangau Caravan Park just before 10 am with our first stop being Bunnings to swap over our 9 kg gas cylinder and then on to fill with diesel.
The first rest area was only 55 kms south of Broome and we drove through Roebuck Plains, an almost empty landscape of low bushes and grasses. When we got to the rest area it was shade less and bare so we decided to push on another 100 kms to the Goodwire Rest Area. Sometimes, especially when there was a slight incline, the road seemed to go on forever before disappearing over the horizon. When this happened we would play ‘Guess the distance’ and would zero one of our trip computers. These guesses usually ended up being around 11 kms which is quite a way to see ahead. The Boabs are definitely no longer with us. For sure, there were Boabs lining the streets of Broome but the appeared to be planted by human hand. The last time we saw a naturally occurring Boab was just south of Derby. We seem to be leaving The Kimberley region now and entering the Pilbura region.
When we got to the Goodwire Rest Area we found it to be very roomy and reasonably shady so we found a spot and settled in. After lunch Geoff went on the search for his driving licence but to no avail. Maybe it got chucked out with some rubbish, who knows?
We relaxed for a good while and then Geoff got the fire pig out and he set up the Sat TV whilst I cooked tea.
We watched the news outside whilst dinner cooked and I can now tell you that the Yeeda beef I was talking about was very good, browned without heaps of water boiling out. I have seen on the web that it is on sale at Exmouth and Geraldton as well so I will certainly buy some more.
Thursday, 28th August 2014 - Goodwire Rest Area
It was quite warm when we got up and it turned out to be a bit of a frustrating morning for me. It started ok with Geoff cooking pancakes on the fire pig for breakfast. Yum. Then it was time for me to go online to Qld Transport to try to get a replacement licence for Geoff. As I didn’t have an online access account I opted for the other option they offered by entering two Qld Transport document numbers but it would not accept it. I then looked at applying by mail and downloaded the form but they then wanted you to jump through a hoop backwards whilst doing a double somersault … sigh … sooooooo frustrating! So I had to ring the 13 number to get an online access code and readied myself for a long, frustrating and automated call. What a shock when I got to speak to a real person within a minute or so. An access code was soon forthcoming (with a 24 hour limit on it) the replacement was done on line, money paid and an interim licence emailed to Geoff within 5 minutes. I should have rung up in the first place but usually these government call lines drive you nuts. Thanks Qld Transport for having a real person on the other end.
Geoff then made a mesh bag to store the fridge shade cover in when not in use which got me making one for the grill plate for the butane cooker and one for the new round griddle plate we had bought to use on the fire pig.
I then wrote a ‘quickie’ short article on the Horizontal Waterfalls for the newsletter of the Highway Wanderers which is the Chapter we belong to in the CMCA. Got some photos together and put them in dropbox to share with the Highway Wanderers editor/admin.
Geoff cooked dinner on the fire pig then we had the genny on for an hour as our power was a little low. Sat around the fire before having a game of Farkle then bed.
Friday, 29th August 2014 - Eighty Mile Beach, north of Port Hedland
A lesson learned today! The lesson is that you should never ever believe that your fire embers are dead in the morning! I started packing away the stuff in the inside while Geoff did the outside. One of his jobs is putting the fire pig away. As he didn’t want to leave an ash mesh where people camp he emptied the cold fire pig on the edge of the campsite next to the bush. He came inside to say something and I caught something out of the corner of my eye. I stuttered “Geoff, Geoff, Geoff” and then managed to get out “Fire”! One of the embers was NOT dead an we think it might have ignited a leaf or something light that then blew into the bush causing a fire. We grabbed buckets and I half filled them whilst Geoff used the water on the fire front edge of the fire. At one point I thought it was going to get away from us due to the wind but, thankfully, there were a few bare sandy patches that slowed it down and we were able to get on top of it. Hearts thumping and both coughing we sat down with a cuppa to let our stress levels flatten out and kept an eye on it. The burnt area was about 5 metres in diameter and I must admit I called Geoff a few choice names. But it just goes to show how quickly disaster can strike. The funny thing was that none of the other campers saw a thing. I’m sure they would have come over to lend a hand if they did … well, you would hope so! When we were sure it was well and truly out we quietly left the rest area.
On the way we were ever vigilant as we were looking to top up or firewood supplies. We soon found a suitable dead tree and had topped up our sacks.
At noon we stopped for lunch at the Sandfire Roadhouse which had an interesting history.
I drove from here but only for about half an hour as Geoff decided we would see what the 9 kms of dirt road was like to the Eighty Mile Beach. Driving the ‘monster’ on dirt and sandy roads is certainly not my forte so I handed over to Geoff. We bounced and shuddered at speeds below 35 kph but when Geoff drove over 50 kph she definitely rode the bumps better. The trouble with traveling at this speed is that you can’t slow down quick enough when the road deteriorates in patches. Having the motorhome take off and become airborne over a bump would not go down well with the crew. Luckily, this road was well cared for and, apart from the corrugations, there were no other hidden dangers.
When we got to the caravan it was not cheap at $41 per night for a powered site but you have to take into account that they have to generate all of their own power and maintain the 9 kms of dirt road. We took a powered site as I intended to do a lot of washing and then cleaning. The washing got done and the cleaning of the motorhome is on the agenda for tomorrow.
Just before dusk we wandered to the beach and sat, with many others, watching the sun sink beneath the horizon. A very pretty sight as the tide was out leaving a few wet areas where the last mirrored images of the suns rays glimmered and gleamed. Beautiful!
Saturday, 30th August 2014 - Eighty Mile Beach
A very productive morning as I manage to do a thorough clean of the motorhome. Geoff then pulled the range hood apart to give that a good clean too with a slight modification so that it worked more efficiently. It was nice having all the cupboards polished, the mirrors sparkling, the carpets cleaned and the floors washed.
It’s amazing how long it all takes considering it is such a small area. As long as it takes to clean a house.
In the afternoon we relaxed outside and had a few games of Cathedral before wandering up to the office to buy and ice cream each and then onto the beach to, once again, watch the sun go down over the Eighty Mile Beach.
Sunday, 31st August 2014 - Cape Keraundren
I did a last load of washing before we left this morning. It was a nice couple of days albeit in quite an expensive caravan park.
We drove on to the Pardoo Roadhouse through flat and uninteresting scrubland. It seemed a shame that the road was only 9 kms inland from the coast which was scenic and spectacular in most parts. Being at least 9 kms from the coast meant you only got the merest glimpse of the sea occasionally. We only got 30 litres of diesel at the roadhouse as it was $2 a litre, enough to get us to Port Hedland. Bread was $5.99, okay, can handle that but I thought the milk at $5.99 a litre was a bit steep! Also, the roadhouse wasn’t as interesting as some.
We found a nice spot with only three other RV’s on a low cliff overlooking the bay which emptied out into the Indian Ocean. Nothing between us and South America unless you were unlucky enough to bump into a few isolated island out in the Pacific!
We were soon set up. There was a sea breeze that kept the temperature down and we sat gazing across the aqua water on a tranquil and serene landscape. As we were siting there taking it all in a GMC American dual cab ute drove by and stopped. We started chatting and soon the kettle was on. Their names were Pete and Lee and they were from the ACT. The were traveling with a 5th Wheeler and had booked into the Pardoo Roadhouse Caravan Park for the night and had come for a look. They were impressed and said they would be back tomorrow for a few nights. A nice couple.
Later Geoff got the scooter down and went off for an explore of the area. He says the track goes on for quite a way and there are plenty of spots to camp and get away from everyone.
We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing and reading etc. Later Geoff got the Sat TV working and the fire pig going and then we watched TV whilst he cooked dinner. We then ate outside for a change. We sat outside until the embers were low, talking in whispers as the neighbours on the left of us went to bed just after 7pm. Too early for us! We try to hang out till at least 9pm.
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